I posted earlier about protective styling in harmattan/Winter season and now here's one for rainy/summer.
I hope it is also safe to assume that rainy season of Subsaharan Nigeria is similar to summer...what with the heat and high humidity.
Before I start, I would love to share the best thing I love about wet season.......I can absolutely BE NATURALLY FIERCE and let my hair roam free and get as big as it wants without fear of dryness ... ( and being a skinny gal, I look like a life size Bratz Doll and love it! ).
I can be "big hair don't care" when it rains.
Picture this, it's raining and lots of girls running around trying to prevent the rain from messing up their do but you just stroll by not really caring if a lil rain gets your hair because they are actually good friends.
Mmm lovely...*snapping back to present *
RAINY SEASON/ SUMMER Humidity- High
Temperature - High
EFFECTS ON YOUR HAIR -Hair well hydrated
-Improved elasticity
-Prone to frizziness and poofing up... so flat ironed hairstyles and any heated styles ...forgetaboutit...unless you've discovered the perfect anti humecant..
-Risk of drying out and bleaching under the sun and from salt in sweat and water...beach,pool..anyone?!
-Springing coils
- Shrinkage
HAIR CARE - Wash hair more often at least weekly. I co wash within the week and then shampoo every other week to reduce buildup.
- Properly condition and moisturise your hair...Yeah it's humid and your hair may drink up moisture in the environment but the environment would also like to take it back!
Please moisturise moisturise moisturise..the good news is your hair won't dry out so fast and the humid weather may act as some kind of outdoor sauna.
-Don't forget to seal in moisture with your favorite butter or oil...
- You still have to protect your hair from rays of the midday sun. A natural sun protector is Shea butter with natural spf 8. Some moisturisers also contain SPF too.
- Chlorine in swimming pool water and salt in sea water can make your hair feel like brambles so please pack your shampoo and condish to wash your hair as soon as you get out of the water.
STYLES YOU CAN ROCK - Wash and go's. Just wash preferably with a conditioner, seal with fave butter and go!
A trick I use to reduce shrinkage is to wash, then apply aloe vera or curl pudding to enhance coil formation and then make two large twists while I get ready. I just loosen up the still damp twists and hit go!
- Fingercoils and comb coils.
- Wet set twists/twistouts or braids/braidouts. I love wet sets because it reduces poofiness and frizziness in humid weather. When I try dry or damp sets...I make sure to pack a scarf...for unforseen massiveness!
I'm beginning to love mini twistouts because although it takes 2hrs to put in myself and less if I do it with my sisters, I could get 2wks out of the style and even more if it is wet set.
- Good ole Afro garnished with flowers, bows , scarves and jewelled hair pieces... and if it's animal print, I love it! #naturalfierceness roar!!!
- I really don't like weaves,wigs or extensions during this period because of the heat and really, why should I hide my hair when it's in it's element?! But if it rocks your boat...fine...
So,spill! How do you rock your natural hair when the weather is hot,wet and slick?!!
Went out for an audition to model for a magazine yesterday with my sister.
I decided to rejuvenate my 5 day old mini twists that I posted on style of the week.
I simply carefully untwisted the twists, applied an oil moisturiser (Free sample Organics Root Stimulator Incredibly Rich Oil Moisturising Hair Lotion - product review later) and then had a shower avoiding direct spray of water.
Just wanted to mist the hair with a little water to poof it up a tad.
Fluffed the hair a bit to give it volume then packed it loosely to the front to cascade down the side of my face.
The twistout looked like locs which was not what I intentionally went for but loved a lot all the same.
Did I tell you that I've given up trying to predict what my twistouts would look like?
My hair decides to dish up different versions of twistouts than I intend.
I just make sure I pack a big scarf in my bag just in case I don't agree with it #bulliedbymyhair
I just got a question from a newly natural sister on Facebook about what to do with your natural hair in winter. In Nigeria, which is located in the Subsaharan region of West Africa, we don't have four seasons like in the temperate regions. We only have two seasons. The wet and dry seasons.
The wet season is damp and humid while the dry season is of course dry and hot in the afternoon and very cold in the evening.
To answer her question somewhat, I would say it is safe to take the winter and harmattan seasons as similar save for the temperature differences. So, how does this translate in your natural hair care?
HARMATTAN/WINTER SEASON
Humidity - Low
Temperatures - Low
EFFECTS ON HAIR
Drying out of hair strands.
Difficulty to maintain moisture.
Brittleness and breakage of hair strands.
Resurfacing of bird's nest syndrome. Hair easily feel like barb wires or scouring sponges....
PROTECTION AND CARE
During this cold period, it is understandable if you don't fancy those wash and go's of the summer / rainy seasons.
Who wants to be at risk of a frozen brain?!
So, here's what I do during this period.
- Co wash bi weekly with lukewarm water. I also use this time to deep condition my hair with a shower cap.
Then I rinse off about 90% and gently squeeze off excess water.
Without leaving the bathroom ( because it's warm and cosy ), I section my hair and coat each section first with a leave in conditioner and seal with a mixture of olive oil and Shea butter ( I used grease or vaseline back in the day but Shea butter works fine for me).
I also apply sheabutter and olive oil mix to my scalp cause unlike grease, it doesn't clog pores.
I then twist each section and allow to air dry ( which considering the weather take no time at all)!
Now because it's cold and all I just want to do is curl up under the blankets with hot cocoa and a good movie and my hair being the least of my worries, I put my hair in long term protective styles that would still give me the opportunity to moisturise any time.
My go to styles are:
- Mini cornrows. I can easily moisturize hair and scalp plus there are loads of funky styles to choose from. Check out my protective styling post to view some.
- Kinky twists. Kinky twists with the kinky extensions have the advantage of lasting up to 2 months. The older they get, the more flexible they become giving you a range of styles.
The disadvantage is that it can break your hair due to the roughness of the extensions ( you can minimise this by properly moisturizing your hair with an oil moisturiser to provide slip).
I don't really advise washing it because it causes matting of my hair but you can clean it with a wet cloth. Also, you may lose lots of hair during take down. One trick I use is to load up with oil moisturiser and then don a showercap for 15mins before takedown. It reduces breakage for me.
- Wigs. Wigs protect my hair but give me the option of taking it off when I want to moisturise my hair. Make sure you purchase a wig cap preferably satin to reduce friction between your hair and wig and also maintain moisture levels. It's also more hygienic as you can wash the cap often reducing the likelihood of fungal and bacterial infection. Make sure to also air your wig often.
- Weaves. Weaves are good but proper moisturizing is always a challenge so it's good to properly moisturise hair a day before installation. That way, hair would have completely absorbed the moisturiser avoiding greasiness. Shea butter is always my best friend in this case.
- Fingercoils. Great protective style as I am maintaining my hair just the way it wanted all along and that is coily. And since hair has to be properly moisturised to get the best results,it's a win win. Note..this is just for completely natural hair. You can't do it on transitioning hair cos of the relaxed bits unless you use straws.
- Flat ironing. Not the best method, I know but just hear me out...first the straightening lasts a long time with little or no reversion due to the dry weather. Second, I can easily oil the hair with conditioning coconut and olive oils and third, little breakage when combing out due to less kinks. When going down this route, I always make sure I deep condition and protein treat my hair. Then I make sure I use thermal protectors to reduce damage.
- Chunky twists or braids with extensions. Easy to put in,easy to take down,hair outta my hands,what more can I say!
And that's it...okay and don't forget to keep your conditioning spritz at hand for remoisturising your hair. Don't also forget your satin scarf or bonnet. It is a must under caps,hats or scarves to protect that poor thirsty hair....and oh...don't forget to oil your scalp. Use natural oils as they absorb better and don't clog pores.
We all have different ways to protect our tresses in winter and harmattan. I've shared mine,please do share yours too...
Till I spill again,
Live Beautifully.Naturally.
Hadassah
I don't EVER go to salons if I can help it and if I ever do, it is to put in braid extensions, twists or fix a weave and even then I resign myself to the fact that my well pampered , split free strands would be damaged in one way or the other...sad but true.
Most salons in Nigeria are used to handling relaxed hair and each time I step into one, I always brace myself up for the
"you want to retouch your hair ?"
"No."
"Why not?"
At this point, there is an interested open mouthed silence as every head turn to stare at me like I'm retarded.
"Because I don't want to."
"Why?"
I'm always asked this question. On some days, I would love to don my natural hat and teach...on others, this question irritates me to no end.
On those days I simply retort,
"Why do you relax your hair?"*plastering on an identical shocked face*
Most times I don't get an answer and everyone then minds their business. Sometimes, I get a "Because it makes my hair easier to manage." To which I reply not unkindly that mine is easier to manage just the way it is.
After this introduction, I am ushered to a seat when after casting lots , the "unfortunate" stylist approaches me (with the others casting furtive glances.)
"Madame , what do you want to do? " ...and salon care officially begins....
Now don't get me wrong, the purpose of this post is not to scare you away from Nigerian hair salons but to equip you with enough info to get the best out of them and leave with a right side up smile and happy naps.
Here's what you should know...
- Please approach hair salons where the attendants are polite, flexible and willing to try something new. In short approach salons with employees willing to listen to you.
- Always go with your own shampoo , conditioner , comb and so on.
It will be a good idea to make your own salon kit including sample sizes of all the stuff you'll like to use on your hair.
I say sample sizes because some salon employees would be frugal with their own products but overly generous with yours.
So, pack just enough.
- Take time out to summarise how you want your hair washed , combed and detangled.
I know we have different ways of detangling. Some detangle dry with loads of oil or conditioner while others detangle wet with conditioner.
Insist your hair be detangled from tips to root with a seamless wide tooth comb.
- Make sure the attendant uses a clean towel and blot not rub dry.
Better still , take your own towel.
- I personally don't like going under a dryer to dry my hair unless I'm deep conditioning.
I prefer my hair to airdry naturally or be blown out.
But if you do, make sure your hair is properly conditioned and twisted or braided before going under to avoid the bird's nest look.
- Speaking of blowouts, always insist on a thermal protector.
Some salons I've gone to do not even know what that means so it's wise to take your own.
Normal procedure for blow out or flat ironing in some salons, is to load up your hair with grease after which they straighten your hair under the highest heat setting!!!!
Also, being public salons , their round brushes and combs would have ragged ends....so again take your own.
- Speak up politely.
If the attendant is doing anything to your hair you don't like, with gentle pressure and patience and honeyed tones and words, explain and demonstrate what you want done.
He or she really don't know what to do with your hair so patiently show them.
I've used this method and made "my very own natural hair stylist" that I always look out for when I decide to return to the salon.
Being aggressive doesn't help and no valuable work is done.
- If you are in a salon to braid , twist or put in a weave it's advisable to prepare your hair at home first unless your "very own specially trained stylist" is in.
- This is not a rule but it helps to generously tip the stylist that listened to you and made you happy.
When I do that, I always have eager attendants on my next appointment.
I think I've gotten the basics of a happy positive salon experience and if I left anything out, please do share...and if you have any questions please ask.
These tips are not just for new or seasoned naturalistas but also helpful for relaxed sisters too.
My sister is relaxed and she agrees that some salons have no idea how to properly care for hair in general!