By Hadassah Agbaps - December 22, 2016

Hi people, what's been on?

Today I'm going to be sharing an update on the oiling regimen I've been going on and on about. I call it the Indian oiling regimen since I got the idea from the Indian practice of oiling their hair. Read more here.

I've been consistently using this regimen since 2013 and have made changes along the way to better suit kinky curly hair of different textures with the help of feedback from the naturalistas around me.

This regimen is especially useful if you're suffering from unexplained dryness, brittleness, breakage, hair shed and dullness. Where this is excessive, please see your doctor.

During the period of adopting this regimen, it has really helped my hair by
- preventing breakage and improving length (I was able to finally grow my fine hair down to my waist)
- improving elasticity and strength
- improving sheen and softness
- improving moisture retention
- improving styling
and I can watch ZeeWorld without being envious of the beautiful, shiny, long hair of the Indian actors.

Taken December 11, 2015


The regimen has three parts,

Step 1: Shampoo

The first step is the shampoo step. If you've been oiling your hair everyday till washday, your hair will be protected from hygral fatigue (water causing your hair to expand) with the accumulated oil.

If this is your first time, apply a lot of oil overnight before shampooing (prepoo). You don't need to repeat this step again afterwards.

You can choose any shampoo of choice but it should be pH balanced, moisturising and sulfate free. The original shampoo regimen is a mix of Soapnut, Amla and Shikakai powder. If you don't have the time or ingredients to mix,  a gentle poo works fine.

My washing mantra is shampoo the scalp, condition the hair.

Dilute your shampoo in a bottle or cup with a spout.  It makes it easy to access your scalp and get it clean. It also makes sure whatever shampoo you're using doesn't strip your hair.

You can also wash your hair in braids or twists. Whatever helps you get access to your scalp. You can use this opportunity to give yourself a scalp massage.
Don't worry about your hair strands, they'll be cleansed by the run off while you rinse.

Optional : After rinsing off the shampoo, mix 3 parts water and 1 part apple cider vinegar , then use it to rinse your hair again. This is meant to acidify your hair and close cuticles so your hair feels smoother.  It's also helps with dandruff and itchy scalp.  So if this is you, try this out.
If you experience unexplained shedding, try brewing black/green tea and use it to rinse your hair.
Wait 5-10 mins before proceeding to conditioning.

Step 2: Condition
Sometimes I even skip the conditioning step and proceed to the oiling step especially after I've done an ACV rinse. However, conditioning helps provide the slip for detangling and coats the hair with moisturising ingredients.
I actually prefer deep conditioning instead of the usual conditioning for this step. I use the rinse out conditioner to cowash off my deep conditioner instead.

Condition your hair only. Try not to let the conditioners touch your scalp. You want to keep your scalp clear.

Blot off excess water and proceed to the next step.

Step 3: Oiling

After working with different oil mixes, this formulation has been effective in improving the health of my hair and scalp. You can use any oil you notice your hair loves.

Divide your hair into four sections.

Pour a small amount of oil into your palm, rub together to warm and massage into your scalp with your fingertips and the rest along the length of your hair.
If  your hair feels greasy, you have used too much.

This is how much I use for each section.

Do this for each section of your hair and scalp until fully absorbed.

I enjoy bending forward while I massage the oil into my hair and scalp.  Not only is it easier on my arms, it increases blood flow to the scalp.

After oiling your hair, apply a light leave in conditioner and then seal your ends with a moisturising butter.
Then braid or twist your hair till it dries.
This is so your natural hair stretches, the oil is given time to penetrate and you have a fabulous braid or twist out.


Everyday afterwards, apply a little oil to your dry hair and around your edges. You don't need to repeat all over your scalp unless you are treating any scalp issues.

Then apply your leave in conditioner. I suggest using a light leave in conditioner to avoid buildup.

It fits right into your LOC moisture routine as the Oil step.

By the time your next washday comes, you wouldn't even need to prepoo and with consistency, you'll notice less breakage and shedding, I kid you not!

Here's my wash and go after oiling for 3 days straight. When I'm lazy, I usually skip several days but I had just taken my hair out of a protective style and it was as brittle as kpekere so I had to be serious with oiling for 3 days without fail.

For this wash and go, I followed all three steps then oiled for three days before wetting my dry hair and applying styling product for my wash and go.

Because my hair was happy, I only used very little gel for each of the 8 sections of hair I worked with.

No drips.
No crunch.
No product overload.

Here's another wash and go done on lovely Nelo during the Hair Clinic I organised last weekend. All steps were followed and her 4c hair clumped beautifully! It also works well on relaxed hair (without the curling, of course...hehe).

P.S. Oils are not moisturisers, water while doing this regimen, don't forget to moisturise afterwards with a water based leave in.

Do let me know if you have any questions and don't forget to share your results with the regimen.

Till I spill again,
Live Beautifully.Naturally.
Hadassah A.

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